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Traveling to Big Sky Country

Alphalion75

Alphalion75

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On Tuesday my wife and I are traveling to Billings, Montana to begin our 3 week trek through Montana, Wyoming, South Dakota and Utah. Going to lots of National Parks and Monuments. We are very excited to experience everything. If anyone likes, please share your experiences and any suggestions you may have for us. We have prepared a jammed pack itinerary. Thanks.
 
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fairgambit

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Alphalion75 said:
On Tuesday my wife and I are traveling to Billings, Montana to begin our 3 week trek through Montana, Wyoming, South Dakota and Utah. Going to lots of National Parks and Monuments. We are very excited to experience everything. If anyone likes, please share your experiences and oas on amy suggestions you may have for us. We have prepared a jammed pack itinerary. Thanks.
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Wow. That sounds terrific. Wishing you safe, memorable, travels.
 
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Bwifan

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Alphalion75 said:
On Tuesday my wife and I are traveling to Billings, Montana to begin our 3 week trek through Montana, Wyoming, South Dakota and Utah. Going to lots of National Parks and Monuments. We are very excited to experience everything. If anyone likes, please share your experiences and oas on amy suggestions you may have for us. We have prepared a jammed pack itinerary. Thanks.
Click to expand...
My sister is there now. Spent this past week in Jackson, WY at Yellowstone and Grand Tetons and now this coming week with her friends renting an Airbnb between Bismark and Jackson. Absolutely having the time of their lives. There is lots of bears around and locals have been warning them don't go anywhere without bear spray. Bears are getting to the point where they look for any food to eat before hibernation. I still love Grand Teton national park. Even more than Yellowstone. Definitely take a ride up top at Jackson Hole ski resort and have waffles at 11,000 feet. Lots of live music and many other things to do while out there. They did a float trip on the river, early morning (5:30) wildlife tour. Saw bison, my goats, antelope, big horn sheep, wolves are there but didn't see any. Loved the town of Gardiner, said it felt like real old.school.Montana
 
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Tom McAndrew

Tom McAndrew

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Oct 27, 2021
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A few thoughts:

- I love that area
- I've been to every National Park in the region you're traveling to, and most (not all) of the National Monuments. Each has great things to see, trips to take, etc. If you've done research, and mapped out an itinerary, I hesitate to offer any specific recommendations
- with that caveat, try to leave a little bit of flexible time for each NP. I do recommend that you go to the Visitor Center at each NP, and talk with a ranger. If there are specific animals that you'd like to see, they can tell you where, and at what times, you have the best chance of seeing them
- sticking with the NP visitor centers, each will have a schedule of ranger lead events. To the extent that you can fit them in, try to go on a ranger-lead walk or to a ranger-lead program, at each park. The knowledge of the rangers is amazing
- let us know how your trip went when you get back
 
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Alphalion75

Alphalion75

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Oct 24, 2001
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Tom McAndrew said:
A few thoughts:

- I love that area
- I've been to every National Park in the region you're traveling to, and most (not all) of the National Monuments. Each has great things to see, trips to take, etc. If you've done research, and mapped out an itinerary, I hesitate to offer any specific recommendations
- with that caveat, try to leave a little bit of flexible time for each NP. I do recommend that you go to the Visitor Center at each NP, and talk with a ranger. If there are specific animals that you'd like to see, they can tell you where, and at what times, you have the best chance of seeing them
- sticking with the NP visitor centers, each will have a schedule of ranger lead events. To the extent that you can fit them in, try to go on a ranger-lead walk or to a ranger-lead program, at each park. The knowledge of the rangers is amazing
- let us know how your trip went when you get back
Click to expand...
Thanks Tom! Our itinerary for all the NPs starts at the visitors centers. Will be in touch.
 
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WaffleShopper

WaffleShopper

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Bwifan said:
My sister is there now. Spent this past week in Jackson, WY at Yellowstone and Grand Tetons and now this coming week with her friends renting an Airbnb between Bismark and Jackson. Absolutely having the time of their lives. There is lots of bears around and locals have been warning them don't go anywhere without bear spray. Bears are getting to the point where they look for any food to eat before hibernation. I still love Grand Teton national park. Even more than Yellowstone. Definitely take a ride up top at Jackson Hole ski resort and have waffles at 11,000 feet. Lots of live music and many other things to do while out there. They did a float trip on the river, early morning (5:30) wildlife tour. Saw bison, my goats, antelope, big horn sheep, wolves are there but didn't see any. Loved the town of Gardiner, said it felt like real old.school.Montana
Click to expand...
Teton is one of our favorites as well. Yellowstone is really incredible but it seems to attract some real nitwits.

Alpha, hard not to go wrong anywhere in any of those places. You’ll have a blast. There’s wildlife everywhere through Montana and Wyoming but the two valleys in Yellowstone, Hayden and Lamar, are amazing. The list of animals we’ve seen there is ridiculous. Don’t be afraid to approach someone that has a scope set up. Most are friendly and love to share when you are polite. Last time through there was a group of people with scopes watching a wolf pack with pups playing. If you can get over to Cody, the Buffalo Bill Center is great (especially the firearms museum).
 
A

Aardvark86

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Oct 12, 2021
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1. Eat lots of huckleberries
2. If in glacier, get out of your car and hike. Logan pass area has several good ones but the great ones are on the east side.
3. Yellowstone is really several parks in one so give yourself time. My biggest hang up is it’s so big you spend a lot of time in the car.
4. If getting to Bryce, definitely hike the hootoos
 
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Tgar

Heisman
Nov 14, 2001
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If you are going more than 20 feet on a trail from a Parking Lot, carry Bear Spray. Aarvark86 mentions huckleberries, these are great but bears love them and the season for fattening up before winter is upon them.
 
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psuro

psuro

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Aug 24, 2001
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Alphalion75 said:
On Tuesday my wife and I are traveling to Billings, Montana to begin our 3 week trek through Montana, Wyoming, South Dakota and Utah. Going to lots of National Parks and Monuments. We are very excited to experience everything. If anyone likes, please share your experiences and any suggestions you may have for us. We have prepared a jammed pack itinerary. Thanks.
Click to expand...
Went to Montana and Yellowstone NP last Sept. We were on a m/c trip.

1. Considering the elevation, it is cold in the morning (even colder when riding a M/C). However, by 11 AM, it started getting warm, and stayed that way past dinner time. So, if you are outside the car a lot, wear layers that you can take off and put on.
2. Speaking of weather, it's not uncommon for a storm to happen quickly through the mountains. Carry some emergency gear with you. If you are renting a car (and it appears you are), ask the rental agency if they have emergency kits, or you can purchase one through Amazon/local auto supply store. They are roughly $50. Carry extra water and snacks.
3. Yellowstone is amazing. See Old Faithful. Be mindful of the wild animals. DO NOT THINK THEY ARE TAME, and don't be the one that ends up on TV for getting attacked by a large wild animal.
4. Every 10 feet is another photo op.
5. We came in from Missoula (so, west of Yellowstone). There are some natural hot springs in that area that are worth a stop.
6. Since you are "travelling through Montana", I will assume you are also heading west of Billings. Try the "Going to the Sun" road. It takes you to Glacer NP. We did not do it, but heard it is amazing.
 
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WDLion

WDLion

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Dec 18, 2006
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Alphalion75 said:
On Tuesday my wife and I are traveling to Billings, Montana to begin our 3 week trek through Montana, Wyoming, South Dakota and Utah. Going to lots of National Parks and Monuments. We are very excited to experience everything. If anyone likes, please share your experiences and any suggestions you may have for us. We have prepared a jammed pack itinerary. Thanks.
Click to expand...
From Billings take the Beartooth Highway to Yellowstone. Great drive.
 
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retsio

retsio

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Feb 18, 2003
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We stayed in West Yellowstone and entered Yellowstone via the west entrance.
Travelled the 'loop' to see as much as possible - the Mud Flats, Grand Canyon of Yellowstone, Yellowstone Lake is immense and beautiful, Old Faithful is just that - it gushes water faithfully, and tour the hotel nearby. If you are near a buffalo - they stink, the smell is bad. See and stop at any time to see as many animals as possible - stopping is routine.
The South entrance will take you to Jackson, taking you past Moose, WY where you can begin a float trip at sun setting - smooth travel. The early morning float trip with major rapids begins in Jackson going south. Have a beer at the Million Dollar Bar, the park may have an arch of antlers collected from the season.
Drive to Jackson Hole and take the ski lift to the top. Stand on the shore of 'Jenny Lake' at the base of Le Grand Teton and look up to feel just how big it really is and then, our perspective.
Check the ' moon' timetable for a Dark Sky area - we found one at Moose, WY - hopefully a clear night sky and stay up late, the sky will be filled with too many stars to count, and where I saw the Milky Way.
Final Important Detail -hope you have a good 35m camera - Nikon or Canon for pictures you wish to save - an iPhone type will not do.
 
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GreggK

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Jan 19, 2002
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Alphalion75 said:
On Tuesday my wife and I are traveling to Billings, Montana to begin our 3 week trek through Montana, Wyoming, South Dakota and Utah. Going to lots of National Parks and Monuments. We are very excited to experience everything. If anyone likes, please share your experiences and any suggestions you may have for us. We have prepared a jammed pack itinerary. Thanks.
Click to expand...

A few years back we did a similar Trip. We loved Livingston Montana. Lost of history in that town, Anthony Bourdan did one (maybe two?) shows about that town. We stayed at the Murray Hotel and hung out at the hotel bar, it was absolutely fantastic. Obviously it was our gateway to Yellowstone the first few nights. We did a drive over the beartooth highway, which was really fantastic and worth it if the road is open. There was something surreal about driving from the mid-summer valleys of Yellowstone up into the snowcovered mountains. It was fantastic.

We initially flew into Rapid City and that day did Bad Lands and ended up staying in Deadwood for the night. Deadwood was a strange and pretty coool at the time town. A ton of casinos and bars for a tiny little strip in the middle of the black hills. I found the blackhills to be incredibly beautiful. The drive from South Dakota through Wyoming and Montana and beautiful and sad. You pass through some reservations that have poverty like I have never seen in the states before. Near Little Big Horn, we stopped at a gas station on what seemed like a fairly run of the mill rest stop. The entire place was encased in bullet proof glass inside which was quite startling to me.
 
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Bones80

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I live in Star Valley, WY about 55 miles SW of Jackson through the Snake River Canyon. I’m quite familiar with GTNP and YSNP. You’ll pass through Star Valley on your way to Utah from Jackson. We’ve had our place here for 17 years and moved out here full time in March. If you need any insider information about anything in this area, let me know.
 
A

Aardvark86

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Tgar said:
If you are going more than 20 feet on a trail from a Parking Lot, carry Bear Spray. Aarvark86 mentions huckleberries, these are great but bears love them and the season for fattening up before winter is upon them.
Click to expand...
it is worth fighting the bears for the huckleberries.


About a decade ago when we were out there, we came around a sharp corner of a trail to find ourselves between Scylla and Charybdis. On our left, a grizzly wallowing in a patch of hucks about 50 yards off the trail, and on our right, a moose and her calf. Thankfully, there were others there too, all with bear spray at the ready. We did not linger.
 
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Tgar

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Aardvark86 said:
it is worth fighting the bears for the huckleberries.


About a decade ago when we were out there, we came around a sharp corner of a trail to find ourselves between Scylla and Charybdis. On our left, a grizzly wallowing in a patch of hucks about 50 yards off the trail, and on our right, a moose and her calf. Thankfully, there were others there too, all with bear spray at the ready. We did not linger.
Click to expand...
Tgar has encountered all of the above and then some up close over the years. It is pretty incredible to witness. The most terrifying moment Tgar ever experienced was stepping up on a small island in the Madison while fly fishing. Climbed up on the side to take a rest and was charged by a mule deer. False charge, stopped and pivoted one foot from crushing me.
 
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kgilbert78

kgilbert78

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Bones80 said:
I live in Star Valley, WY about 55 miles SW of Jackson through the Snake River Canyon. I’m quite familiar with GTNP and YSNP. You’ll pass through Star Valley on your way to Utah from Jackson. We’ve had our place here for 17 years and moved out here full time in March. If you need any insider information about anything in this area, let me know.
Click to expand...
Drove thru there on Friday (bus tour). Stopped at the Oregon Trail visitor's center. Beautiful area.
 
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throw2oj

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Oct 12, 2021
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I did the highline trail in the Winds, went pretty far up towards Gannet from the lakes where the road end (past Squaretop and deep into the valley). I was leery of bears and about an hour in I see the biggest darkest rear end and i'm thinking to myself this is the bear encounter, it's happening. And then I pan over and I see antlers. I'm like "Oh, it's a moose." And after a moment 'wait, that might be worse.' But it was late, like 8am or so and it looked at me and I looked at it and it continued on its way up out the river bottom and away from the possibility of running into any people the rest of the day.
 
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G3624

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Feb 18, 2014
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Hungry horse was my base camp for Glacier National Park, we started there. Went to the Little Big Horn. That was to put things in perspective, like Custers foley, in that terrain. Entered the Yellowstone on the west side. Best side. I like the mammoth spring area best, lots of thermodynamics there. South Dakota if your in the Badlands, go to pine ridge and talk with the Native Americans and begin your journey back to the north side of park. Wall drug is a tourist trap worth 16 minutes. Near there is a minute man missle installation, reservations required to tour the silo and command center. I toured one near Tucson, very interesting. Required adventure Black Hills, Jewel Cave, Wind Cave, and the Buffalo ranch. Of course Crazy Horse, Mount Rushmore, and the highway through the pinnacles. Luckily you will miss all the grandfathers playing Hells Angels this time of year. Great series of adventures to be had. Google Earth is your friend. If anyone goes to Nevada, look up Hawthorne Nevada. Worlds largest Ammunition Dump. One military officer there. The rest of employees are all civilian. Google it on Google Earth. Bunkers everywhere.
 
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N

not so fast my friend

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Jun 26, 2001
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I’ve been to most of the locations discussed here. I lived in Colorado for years and a daughter lived in Utah.

If you can make it to Antelope Canyon in Northern Arizona as a detour in Southern Utah, you won’t be disappointed.
 
1

1995PSUGrad

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Nov 16, 2019
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psuro said:
Went to Montana and Yellowstone NP last Sept. We were on a m/c trip.

1. Considering the elevation, it is cold in the morning (even colder when riding a M/C). However, by 11 AM, it started getting warm, and stayed that way past dinner time. So, if you are outside the car a lot, wear layers that you can take off and put on.
2. Speaking of weather, it's not uncommon for a storm to happen quickly through the mountains. Carry some emergency gear with you. If you are renting a car (and it appears you are), ask the rental agency if they have emergency kits, or you can purchase one through Amazon/local auto supply store. They are roughly $50. Carry extra water and snacks.
3. Yellowstone is amazing. See Old Faithful. Be mindful of the wild animals. DO NOT THINK THEY ARE TAME, and don't be the one that ends up on TV for getting attacked by a large wild animal.
4. Every 10 feet is another photo op.
5. We came in from Missoula (so, west of Yellowstone). There are some natural hot springs in that area that are worth a stop.
6. Since you are "travelling through Montana", I will assume you are also heading west of Billings. Try the "Going to the Sun" road. It takes you to Glacer NP. We did not do it, but heard it is amazing.
Click to expand...
Going to the Sun Road is amazing. If you are going to Glacier, this would be my #1 recommendation.
 
Nittering Nabob

Nittering Nabob

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Tgar said:
If you are going more than 20 feet on a trail from a Parking Lot, carry Bear Spray. Aarvark86 mentions huckleberries, these are great but bears love them
Click to expand...
Excellent advice along with don’t pack the bear spray inside your backpack. It should already be pre-tested and easily located.

I prefer hip holders instead of placing it in mesh side holders on most back packs.
 
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LafayetteBear

LafayetteBear

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Nov 30, 2009
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Bwifan said:
My sister is there now. Spent this past week in Jackson, WY at Yellowstone and Grand Tetons and now this coming week with her friends renting an Airbnb between Bismark and Jackson. Absolutely having the time of their lives. There is lots of bears around and locals have been warning them don't go anywhere without bear spray. Bears are getting to the point where they look for any food to eat before hibernation. I still love Grand Teton national park. Even more than Yellowstone. Definitely take a ride up top at Jackson Hole ski resort and have waffles at 11,000 feet. Lots of live music and many other things to do while out there. They did a float trip on the river, early morning (5:30) wildlife tour. Saw bison, my goats, antelope, big horn sheep, wolves are there but didn't see any. Loved the town of Gardiner, said it felt like real old.school.Montana
Click to expand...
Good for you, Bwifan. If you tour through the hot springs areas of Yellowstone, STAY ON THE PATHWAYS AND DO NOT TOUCH THE WATER. I had a high school classmate who went there with his dog. The dog saw something in the water and jumped in, and the classmate jumped in to save his dog. They both dissolved. I have to say that I always thought there was something a little off with that clasmate, and the Darwin Awards nature of his demise kinda confirmed it. I know that sounds harsh, but stay on the pathways!
 
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LafayetteBear

LafayetteBear

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Bryce > Zion, IMHO.

I have never been to Arches National Park. The photos from there seem incredible, but I have no idea what kind of food, lodging and other amenities they have to support the Arches experience.
 
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Bwifan

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G3624 said:
I just heard Going to the Sun road is closed due to weather.
Click to expand...
Correct they had a pretty good snowfall out there this weekend. Several places received 6+ inches of snow. My sister is out there right now and sent some beautiful snowfall pictures that up top on the mountains. I believe snowfall levels dropped to 7K feet.
 
T

Tgar

Heisman
Nov 14, 2001
6,757
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Bwifan said:
Correct they had a pretty good snowfall out there this weekend. Several places received 6+ inches of snow. My sister is out there right now and sent some beautiful snowfall pictures that up top on the mountains. I believe snowfall levels dropped to 7K feet.
Click to expand...
Three weeks ago we spent several days hiking, canoeing and kayaking in the Canadian Rockies. For the last couple of days, it was “ snowing in higher elevations”. A couple of the hikes we took had approximately 2000 foot elevation gains. It gets chilly fast, especially when The clouds arrive.

While it was in the 70s most days, our guides said it would be snowing where we were hiking in a couple of weeks. We were constantly between 5K and 8K elevation. It was hard to imagine at the time but obviously correct. It changes quickly!
 
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Aardvark86

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Bwifan said:
Correct they had a pretty good snowfall out there this weekend. Several places received 6+ inches of snow. My sister is out there right now and sent some beautiful snowfall pictures that up top on the mountains. I believe snowfall levels dropped to 7K feet.
Click to expand...
When we were out this year, we were there a few days before it opened, and much of the east side of the park was closed due to rains and flooding. If you're looking for a cool alternative hikes by Lake McDonald, check out either Trail of the Cedars up to Avalanche Lake, or Trout Lake.

Take crampons with you btw....

Also, DEFINITELY worth grabbing a bite of lunch at Lake McDonald Lodge. Lots of local stuff that does not taste like it has been prepared by Aramark.
 
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