House & Workshop Construction Project

Tinker Dan

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Jan 31, 2006
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I am going to have a house and workshop (general guy projects) built in Bracken County just outside of Augusta.

Hopefully start construction in the spring. My current lease is up in September so I want to be in the house by that point.

I will be asking a ton of questions and looking for advice.

I COMPLETELY understand this is the Paddock so I am fully aware of the grief and "expert" advice I can expect. ;)

But I actually trust this forum way more than the vast majority of online resources I can find.

I guess the first step is to find general contractors in the NKY area. The property is 30 miles east of the intersection of the AA and Hwy 27(I used Ruby Tuesday as the reference point) off of HWY 1159.

Property:
  • 3.72 acres - already cleared and leveled.
  • 420 ft of road frontage
  • Easy access

House:
  • Ranch style(ish) with a walkout basement 1400 square feet +/-
  • Electric
  • Water
  • Septic
Workshop
  • 30x50

I appreciate any help.
 

KentuckyStout

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Layout, roll up door quantity and size on the 30X50 please.

This is a side entry workshop, correct?

Are you considering steel? (the correct answer to this question is yes)
 
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Tinker Dan

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Thanks for the replies. I will try to follow up with details after work.

I have actually been hearing some mixed reviews on the Amish construction around here.

I am leaning towards steel for the workshop.
 

KentuckyStout

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I am leaning towards steel for the workshop.

The most cost effective way to build your workshop is 12-gauge OR 14-gauge tube-steel frame with 29-gauge panels. Both of these can be rated for a 30-pound roof snow-load in Kentucky, along with a 130-mph wind load rating. That is per Kentucky building code for this type of structure.
 

funKYcat75

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Apr 10, 2008
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I have actually been hearing some mixed reviews on the Amish construction around here.
I was mostly joking, but yeah. Have some relatives on 68 that have had things put up quickly by them, but there was not much attention to detail.
 
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herodotus6

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I was mostly joking, but yeah. Have some relatives on 68 that have had things put up quickly by them, but there was not much attention to detail.
Glad to know half-assing a job is now on the list of things the Amish do just as much as we do, plus a half.
 
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UKserialkiller

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KentuckyStout

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Good to know. I am definitely going to heat the building.

OK, then you are more concerned with cold than we are down south where we are more concerned with heat.This rules out radiant heat barrier for you IMO (thermal foil), installed during construction, so...you may want to start researching fire-rated spray foam installed after construction.

Insulating a steel building can add a whole pile of money to your workshop budget and has to be done just right or you are just throwing your money away. When you say you are definitely going to heat the building, are you talking about climate control or are you talking about just using a heater in the building during the winter months?
 
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OK, then you are more concerned with cold than we are down south where we are more concerned with heat.This rules out radiant heat barrier for you IMO (thermal foil), installed during construction, so...you may want to start researching fire-rated spray foam installed after construction.

Insulating a steel building can add a whole pile of money to your workshop budget and has to be done just right or you are just throwing your money away. When you say you are definitely going to heat the building, are you talking about climate control or are you talking about just using a heater in the building during the winter months?

We definitely know who sells steel buildings ITT.
 

Tinker Dan

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Jan 31, 2006
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OK, then you are more concerned with cold than we are down south where we are more concerned with heat.This rules out radiant heat barrier for you IMO (thermal foil), installed during construction, so...you may want to start researching fire-rated spray foam installed after construction.

Insulating a steel building can add a whole pile of money to your workshop budget and has to be done just right or you are just throwing your money away. When you say you are definitely going to heat the building, are you talking about climate control or are you talking about just using a heater in the building during the winter months?

We definitely know who sells steel buildings ITT.

Property has water, electric, phone, etc.
No public sewage
No gas :(
Will consider tank​

Workshop First then house :)

I definitely want to heat in the winter. The "workshop" covers many duties. My last one was:
  • 24 x 32
  • Wood with vinyl siding
  • 6/12 pitch with 2x6 beams. with 3/4 plywood floor down the center for storage
  • Did multiple duties - light woodworking, mechanic stuff, hangout, place to tell lies, entertain, etc
I envision a lot of the same things with this one.

I am thinking (but I am open to change and options):
  • 30x50
  • Man doors as appropriate
  • Main area 30x30
    • One main roll up door
  • Wall in between main area and back area
  • Back area 20x30 split between
    • Lawn and garden storage
      • Small roll up door on side
    • Small kitchen area
      • mainly for beer, food prep, fridges, sinks, place to clean deer, fish, etc.
    • 1/2 bath (toilet, sink, maybe a urinal
  • Definitely heated - could be radiant, etc.
I have house plans from concept homes - model CH61

https://www.concepthome.com/house-plans/small-house-ch61/32

I am going to modify the plans a good bit. I have a rough drawing I will upload later. Swamped at work.

I have picture of the property layout, etc.... all to follow.


I really do appreciate the feedback guys or zi as the case may be.
 

krazykats

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Interesting design. Is that on a slab? On the site it says estimated cost at $110K which is definetly a fair figure.

The only issue I'd have is the 13'9 wall height. On the whole house with all that glass in the front it will be a monster to heat/air.
 
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I would consider doing a post and beam type structure for your garage/workshop. 6x6 at 4'-0" o.c. with 2x purlins at 2'-0" o.c. for attaching both the wall panels and roof panels. Then you can insulate with 42" batts.

IEC is cracking down on thermal bridging caused when using steel structure. You'll have to do cavity insulation and continuous exterior insulation if it goes through permitting.
 

krazykats

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Why would you go 4' OC?

Typically we go 8' OC to 10' OC with trusses 4' OC.

Anything tighter than that is overkill.