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OT: Woodworker finish question for the AKB...

MtNittany

MtNittany

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I have a live edge table/bar attached to the wall w/ a cleat and with 2 hairpin legs on the front. It's direct sun/rain/heat in the worst possible eastern exposure. I've re-done it a few times, but it's been a few years.

I have it sanded and ready for something. It's been awhile but it seemed that mineral oil w/ a little melted beeswax was what worked best. I've used tung oil/beeswax but I think I remember it coming out too dark.

This picture is from maybe 4 or 5 years ago:

23423432(1).jpg

Thoughts, suggestions?
 
Nittering Nabob

Nittering Nabob

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MtNittany

MtNittany

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My outdoor pool table rails are done w/ 3 coats of spar (and look great), but that is always covered. Also I finished them indoors next to a dehumidifier. Nothing will cure outside in this heat.

If I were to dismantle the table and finish that inside, that would be an option but even then the sun would wind up destroying the finish and it would be harder to refinish. I'd even consider 2 part resin/epoxy but that would fade.

Oil and wax seems to work best. Just wondering if tung or mineral or linseed really makes a difference.
 
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STPGopherfan

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If you want to dive a little deeper: Understanding Wood Finishing, 3rd Revised Edition: How to Select and Apply the Right Finish

for ease of application, what you are currently doing isn't bad. Just need to touch up now and then. If you can't live with mineral oil and beeswax darkening the surface, you could try wood bleach.

There are conversion varnishes, and ceramic finishes, but I don't have much experience with them. Not sure how much additional UV protection you'd get. Not to mention the ceramic/ nano finishes are spendy.

Best of luck. let us know how things work out.
 
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MtNittany

MtNittany

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STPGopherfan said:
If you want to dive a little deeper: Understanding Wood Finishing, 3rd Revised Edition: How to Select and Apply the Right Finish

for ease of application, what you are currently doing isn't bad. Just need to touch up now and then. If you can't live with mineral oil and beeswax darkening the surface, you could try wood bleach.

There are conversion varnishes, and ceramic finishes, but I don't have much experience with them. Not sure how much additional UV protection you'd get. Not to mention the ceramic/ nano finishes are spendy.

Best of luck. let us know how things work out.
Click to expand...
I think what I worry about is keeping the very light and darker colors of the table (which I chopped down in a rain forest in front of horrified villagers) to be as distinct as possible. Darker oil darkens the front. Mineral oil does nothing to it. It isn't about food grade or anything like that. I'd put asbestos oil on it if it worked.
 
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STPGopherfan

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MtNittany said:
I think what I worry about is keeping the very light and darker colors of the table (which I chopped down in a rain forest in front of horrified villagers) to be as distinct as possible. Darker oil darkens the front. Mineral oil does nothing to it. It isn't about food grade or anything like that. I'd put asbestos oil on it if it worked.
Click to expand...
Hmmm. I get exactly what you are saying, but kind of stumped on a sure fire solution. I will ask someone I know about water based spar urethane and if it would help. Why water based? Some have great UV protection. The problem is IIRC that they don't mix with waxes and oil based finishes.

Shellac base then any of the film finishes is great. The problem with many film finishes (varnishes, lacquers, etc.) is they can build up and give your finish a plastic like look.

The late Sam Maloof used to use blends like you are currently using with Poly Urethane.

One Maloof recipe:

Osmo is another possible product (two to three coats?) https://www.rockler.com/osmo-uv-pro...ygbq-HvugQ-Kqi0-FLrSkDT-5Zop6tcQaAp0UEALw_wcB

https://osmocolorusa.com/

Any of the rub on finishes are relatively easy to use. Like Mr. Maloof, I've often used high grit sandpaper, 0000 (four ought) steel wool, or white (high grit) sand pads to apply and rub out.
 
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s1uggo72

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I think this guy is in Western Pa, could be wrong, but I would research guys like this for the best answers

 
MtNittany

MtNittany

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s1uggo72 said:
Don’t they use epoxy and varnish finishes on yachts??? Which are outside
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1) It's overkill and won't cure in these conditions. I realize I'm re-sanding this thing every 2 years. Just trying to make it as easy as possible.
2) I'm not bringing the table inside to finish it. It would wind up w/ paw prints on it and take half a dozen coats of varnish or days of curing for epoxy - which would both fail in the end anyway.
 
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LilWashLion

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MtNittany said:
I have a live edge table/bar attached to the wall w/ a cleat and with 2 hairpin legs on the front. It's direct sun/rain/heat in the worst possible eastern exposure. I've re-done it a few times, but it's been a few years.

I have it sanded and ready for something. It's been awhile but it seemed that mineral oil w/ a little melted beeswax was what worked best. I've used tung oil/beeswax but I think I remember it coming out too dark.

This picture is from maybe 4 or 5 years ago:

View attachment 864696

Thoughts, suggestions?
Click to expand...
Use an automotive 2K clear coat.
2K means it takes a catalyst to dry it.
 
Hotshoe

Hotshoe

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MtNittany said:
I have a live edge table/bar attached to the wall w/ a cleat and with 2 hairpin legs on the front. It's direct sun/rain/heat in the worst possible eastern exposure. I've re-done it a few times, but it's been a few years.

I have it sanded and ready for something. It's been awhile but it seemed that mineral oil w/ a little melted beeswax was what worked best. I've used tung oil/beeswax but I think I remember it coming out too dark.

This picture is from maybe 4 or 5 years ago:

View attachment 864696

Thoughts, suggestions?
Click to expand...

Waterlox Coatings Corporation

Premium Tung Oil wood sealers, stains and finishes handmade in the U.S.A by a family-owned company since 1910.
waterlox.com waterlox.com
 
Nittering Nabob

Nittering Nabob

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This thread has a bit of RangerDan to it.

A poster, who already has their mind made up, asks for advice and then proceeds to argue against every respondent.
 
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STPGopherfan

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MtNittany said:
I should have been more clear. I was wondering which oil would work best.
Click to expand...
BTW I forgot to ask. Is that an exotic? Looks like it could be a South American hardwood?

BTW I love this thread and threads like it. Woodworking is most always a journey.
 
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MtNittany

MtNittany

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STPGopherfan said:
BTW I forgot to ask. Is that an exotic? Looks like it could be a South American hardwood?

BTW I love this thread and threads like it. Woodworking is most always a journey.
Click to expand...
Some sort of Monkey Pod wood. I got it for $100 on FB Marketplace years ago. Guy had like a dozen of them from some defunct business office.

Good link you provided above. The moisture/sun factors are worst case here. I could actually just melt the beeswax on the table if I wanted to do it during the day.
 
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STPGopherfan

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MtNittany said:
Some sort of Monkey Pod wood. I got it for $100 on FB Marketplace years ago. Guy had like a dozen of them from some defunct business office.

Good link you provided above. The moisture/sun factors are worst case here. I could actually just melt the beeswax on the table if I wanted to do it during the day.
Click to expand...
Yes you could, or you could by some nice beeswax pastes. I've tried Gilboy's. Fantastic stuff. The problem again is how does it work outside. If you have access to an off cut of Monkey Pod, consider making a "story stick" with a few finishing options and see what gives you the best mix of durability and looks.

I love working with oils and waxes because of the ease of application. They are best when you can apply a couple/ few coats. Oils will initially rise back to the surface initially. Usually rebuffing will take care of that.

BTW have you tried adding some Carnauba wax?

Clear Wax Carnauba Bar

Pure Carnauba Wax for Wood, Furniture, Car Polish and Leather Finishing

If you don't want to play around with any of that stuff, you could just try automotive carnauba paste wax after reapplying oil. Which Waxes Work Best?





I haven't had much time in the last year to work with any of this stuff. Last experiment I did was with a soap finish. Not durable at all, but easy to fix and make.
 
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SleepyLion

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STPGopherfan said:
Yes you could, or you could by some nice beeswax pastes. I've tried Gilboy's. Fantastic stuff. The problem again is how does it work outside. If you have access to an off cut of Monkey Pod, consider making a "story stick" with a few finishing options and see what gives you the best mix of durability and looks.

I love working with oils and waxes because of the ease of application. They are best when you can apply a couple/ few coats. Oils will initially rise back to the surface initially. Usually rebuffing will take care of that.

BTW have you tried adding some Carnauba wax?

Clear Wax Carnauba Bar

Pure Carnauba Wax for Wood, Furniture, Car Polish and Leather Finishing

If you don't want to play around with any of that stuff, you could just try automotive carnauba paste wax after reapplying oil. Which Waxes Work Best?





I haven't had much time in the last year to work with any of this stuff. Last experiment I did was with a soap finish. Not durable at all, but easy to fix and make.
Click to expand...

One guy asking another if he wants to play around with waxes and oils.
not that there's anything wrong with that seinfeld GIF by myLAB Box
 
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STPGopherfan

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s1uggo72 said:
Don’t they use epoxy and varnish finishes on yachts??? Which are outside
Click to expand...
Short answer, yes. Can be spendy though and not always easily available. I suggested forms of oils and waxes because of cost and ease of use. At heart, I'm a bit of a wood nerd. Though I am just a novice at best, I know of several phenomenal woodworkers. All love to share knowledge.
 
MtNittany

MtNittany

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STPGopherfan said:
Short answer, yes. Can be spendy though and not always easily available. I suggested forms of oils and waxes because of cost and ease of use. At heart, I'm a bit of a wood nerd. Though I am just a novice at best, I know of several phenomenal woodworkers. All love to share knowledge.
Click to expand...
"Drinking lots of mineral oil and soaking up rays"

Adobe Express - file(1).jpg
 
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MtNittany

MtNittany

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4 coats so far. It's soaking it all up. The table will be waxy during the day until it cools down a bit, but we only really use it at night when shooting pool.

20250812_113649_50.jpg
 
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STPGopherfan

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MtNittany said:
"Drinking lots of mineral oil and soaking up rays"
Click to expand...
Looks like you could keep applying until it starts wicking oil out. Especially on the cathedral rings. Let it set for a minimum of 72 hours after that prior to waxing/ buffing out if you choose to do so.

Note: I forgot to post this yesterday. Great work!
 
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WestSideLion

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Oil and wax is great if you plan to reapply periodically. Sounds like that's what you've been doing.

Water-based products tend to darken or yellow wood less than oil. I have friends who swear by Crystalac products. I've used Brite-Tone successfully on indoor furniture. I imagine you can get the outdoor poly in a satin or more blunt finish so as to look less plastic.

But the heat and UV is going to do a number on any finish you use in Florida. Taking the easiest approach to refinish is smart.
 
MtNittany

MtNittany

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WestSideLion said:
Oil and wax is great if you plan to reapply periodically. Sounds like that's what you've been doing.

Water-based products tend to darken or yellow wood less than oil. I have friends who swear by Crystalac products. I've used Brite-Tone successfully on indoor furniture. I imagine you can get the outdoor poly in a satin or more blunt finish so as to look less plastic.

But the heat and UV is going to do a number on any finish you use in Florida. Taking the easiest approach to refinish is smart.
Click to expand...
If I just neglect it from here for around 6 months, it will be grey - w/ no color distinction at all. The wax is really the key to bringing out some sheen and hardness. Even now, it's out of the sun and it's still hot as hell, but the wax is pretty hard.
 
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