Regular versus synthetic oil change
- Thread starter Glenn's Take
- Start date
New vehicles yes. Older vehicles no, as they will leak with synthetic.
Yep, new vehicles recommend synthetic. And instead of the 3,000 mile oil change with regular, with synthetic you can go between 5,000 and 7,500 miles.
5.5 Quarts synthetic 5W30 and I never go over 5k for my glorious and finely tuned Toyota 4Runner.
Why? Because that's what the wise and able engineers from the Empire of Japan told me to do.
Truth is that engine/oil is fine up to 10K but I like to baby it.
Why? Because that's what the wise and able engineers from the Empire of Japan told me to do.
Truth is that engine/oil is fine up to 10K but I like to baby it.
Synthetic doesn't break down with high heat as quickly as conventional oil does. For the Z, have to use synthetic but doesn't leak because the engine burns it before it can. Everything above is also true.
Always have offset the cost by changing myself. I can also verify the filter and drain plugs don't get overtightened and the filter double gasketed.
Worked in a couple shops so have some trust issues from things I've seen.
Always have offset the cost by changing myself. I can also verify the filter and drain plugs don't get overtightened and the filter double gasketed.
Worked in a couple shops so have some trust issues from things I've seen.
Helium. That’s how it flies.
Oil changes one of Big Oil’s scams. Why change at all? Just check the level every week and top off as needed — as the old leaks out/burns off it’ll eventually get “replaced” with new and you’ll save a bunch of money.
I knew a guy that every 2000 miles all he did was change filter and top off oil. He swore by that, and who knows if he was wrong, he had that car a long time with no issues.
And you are right about big oil scam. Took a little ram promaster city van just yesterday to Valvoline for oil change. 105.00 dollars
I never change my oil but ive also cracked 4 engine heads. Broke even in the end.
Nobody is SO busy that they can't change their own oil. It takes 30 minutes, it's easy as hell, saves you a ton of money, and makes you feel like a useful man. Plus, just like grilling, it's a good excuse to have a few cold ones while you do it.
Check your owners manual to see what the manufacturer says about it. Obviously use the proper weight/viscosity. Price wise if you do it yourself practically no difference. Got mine at Walmart and conventional vs full synthetic almost the same price for 5 quarts. Oil change places and chain auto shops mark up oil changes big time for full synthetic. $40 more for my SUV at the local Goodyear Auto Service place.
Interesting. I've always changed oil in my vehicles on 3000-5000 mile intervals, but have stuck to a 10,000 mile interval on my wife's 2014 4Runner since we bought it new, due to those same wise and able Japanese engineers you reference who recommend said 10,000 mile interval in the manual. I figure they are much smarter than I am, and although it was strange to wait that long at first, it has been completely fine over our eight years of ownership.
5,000 has been the recommendation for years. Oil change places love for you to think it’s 3,000.
Precisely. And if you have a big enough SUV or Truck you don’t even have to jack it up.
My car has to have the oil changed at the dealer every 2 years for like 2k. Kinda crazy but whatever. Back when I had a commoners car I used to go to valvoline and get the full synthetic and change it every 7,000 miles.
I used to get my oil changed at a quick lube place when I was working a lot of hours. I left one day and headed home. About 4 miles later I hit the brakes for a stop light and oil splatters on the windshield and smoke starts rolling out from under the hood. It was like a nascar engine failure except I was just slowing down. I hit neutral and shut it off, coasting to a side road. They had left the fill cap off. Oil had sprayed onto the hood while driving. When I hit the brakes, oil flew into the fan and it was showtime. I’ve changed my own since.
if you have a compressor on your engine, turbo or blower, you BETTER change the oil per manufacturers recommendation. turbo coking is a real thing along with damaging hot-shutdowns, and is much more expensive than oil. some diesels have oil systems pressurized to ~4000 PSI. oil shear is a problem unless you spend money on good oil, normal or synthetic.
three filters, 4 gallons of oil, one quart of transmission fluid (poured into fuel tank), and an hour later i am done. clock is at ~297K right now and does not leak ANYTHING.
three filters, 4 gallons of oil, one quart of transmission fluid (poured into fuel tank), and an hour later i am done. clock is at ~297K right now and does not leak ANYTHING.
It’s simple — rightsie tightsie, leftsie loosie. Now crawl under there and make us proud.
given the stress that some engines put on the oil, coking is not out of the question or a similar issue with hot shut downs. you would be amazed at the exhaust gas temperatures for vehicles with turbo chargers, or commonly called eco-boost now. oil pressure at ~4000 PSI and exhaust gas at ~1600 F is very taxing on the oil in the turbo.
rule of thumb: if you have been driving at any rate above idle, give it 30-60 seconds to idle and cool that oil. once you shut it off, cooling is severely limited even if there is a post shut down re-circulation going on.
many heavy trucks have an idle feature that runs the engine for a specified time after the key is removed/turned off to cool everything down.
good oil is cheap insurance, for the poors anyway!
What the hell do you drive and where do you live? There are indy shops up here in north NJ that would service even the most exotic of exotics. First thing I did was find a good indy shop and my C63S is the cheapest car in the service bays every time I take mine in for service.
Need some deets. Manual, I trust?
Took 2 years of digging but finally got my hands on a 991.2 GTS 7mt a few months ago…..shewweeee it’s a blast.
Also have a mint/stock 98 Supra TT 6mt as well, but it is quite tame by comparison.