What is wrong with my car?

[uksam21]

Was hoping I'd get some advice from the paddock... maybe a bad idea but I am desperate

I have a 2003 Mazda 6 and in May I noticed the car starting dropping RPMs slow starts. Took it to a shop they diagnosed it as cam sensor going bad would need to replace it. In June my car started sputtering again on interstate and died at the off ramp. It will turn over but will not start. I have taken it two places and they have eliminated the spark plugs, engine has compression, fuel pump and electrical issues. The last place I took it to concluded it's an issue with PCM. any suggestions?

 

[Ron Mehico]

Its a 13 year old Mazda, that's what's wrong with it.

 

[funKYcat75]

It be broke

 

[funKYcat75]

Shoulda got a Miata

 

[uksam21]

Its a 13 year old Mazda, that's what's wrong with it.

Good point. Just wanting to see if there is any mechanical advice that could be given.

 

[cawoodsct]

Mechanical advice is buy a new or used car and get rid of your current jalopy.

 

[uksam21]

Mechanical advice is buy a new or used car and get rid of your current jalopy.

That is my thought also honestly, just thought help from the Paddock would be warranted.

 

[Clive Gollings]

Trade it in and use the $500 dollars you get for it towards you down payment and lease your next car.

Crazy people still buy things that depreciate.

 

[drawing_dead]

did you replace the cam sensor? if not, probably your issue.
get the Torque app and an Elm 327. that will help a lot for debugging.

 

[uksam21]

I'm not a mechanic, but even I know most cars won't run if their spark plugs and fuel pump are eliminated. I'd prolly start by re-installing them. Good luck.

I'm not a mechanic, but even I know most cars won't run if their spark plugs and fuel pump are eliminated. I'd prolly start by re-installing them. Good luck.

Really? Even for Paddock standards that was a futile attempt at a joke.

 

[LineSkiCat14]

Trade it in and use the $500 dollars you get for it towards you down payment and lease your next car.

Crazy people still buy things that depreciate.

I'd only suggest this if you drive in a close proximity area. I thought about leasing but not sure I want to be hamstrung by mileage. Plus the extra fees, plus not owning anything at the end. Leasing is for someone who's top priority is a new car every few years. The way I think of it is this... if leasing wasn't a good idea for the car companies to make more money, they wouldn't do it. They didn't come up with the lease with the consumer in mind. That tells you something.

I'd say the best route to go is to get a 2-3 year old car, certified pre-owned, that is still under factory warranty. That might not get you a 2014 3 series beamer, that you could probably lease instead.. but then maybe that says you shouldn't have a nice luxury car anyways.

 

[LineSkiCat14]

Also go for a 4-year term if you can on a used car. Maybe that means your payments are higher and you have to get an Ultima instead of a Maxima.. so be it. Make it your everyday car, take modest care of it.. drive it another 6 years after the payments are up and bank the money.

Then reward yourself (if you want) and buy the car you really wanted.

 

[UKGrad93]

Watch this Texan and learn something.

 

[LordEgg_rivals16573]

you have an exhaust flow issue. bad news, its hard to diagnose; good news, its easy to fix. what happens is the metal inside the corruption off shoot bends in an a-shape downward into the vortex causing restriction. the best, cheapest and easiest way to fix this is problem is go get a hose clamp from any auto parts store (one that will clamp down somewhere between 2 and 3 inches, a large diameter hose, 2 rolls of duct tape, and make sure gas tank is full.

1. cut off metal fitting on garden hose (either end - doesn't matter.)
2. slit hose in one line until you can fit that end snugly over exhaust pipe
3. now take one hose clamp and place on exhaust pipe.
4. once on fairly securely use entire roll of duct tape up and down hose/exhaust area to make sure it will not come undone unintentionally, or for that matter intentionally from a any bystander unfamiliar with this correction technique.
5. run hose along drivers side of car to window.
6. crack window with electronic window lever or manual lever (depending on option on vehicle)
7. place hose end through window, ever so slightly closing window as to hold hose tight in place.
8. You guessed it, seal remaining area of window with roll 2 of duct tape, leaving enough left over to tape here and there along side of care for extra security.
9. check to ensure there are NO KINKS in hose between exhaust and window - kinks will just delay the fix and cost extra gas money.
10. Once satisfied Nos. 1-9 are satisfactorily complete, enter the drivers side and close to securely.
11. With foot on brake, turn ignition and start engine, leaving vehicle either in Park or Neutral (depending on transmission).
12. Place head next to hose in window listening for a distinctive Bob-White whistling sound. No other sound will indicate correction completion. do not mistake hums, gargles, appearances of dead relatives, or bright lights at the end of tunnels to indicate success. it must be a Bob-White sound.

Once heard, you may remove apparatus and thank yourself for saving the trouble.

 

[catlanta33]

Bad rotary girder. About a $700 repair on that model.

 

[Nuke99m.]

 

[catsfanbgky]

Probably needs some new ball bearings. Make sure to lube them with WD40.

 

[allabouttheUK]

I'd say you have an issue with overheating. I'd take a drill with a smallish bit and drill some holes in your radiator to increase the air flow.

Seriously though, my mother had a Chrysler Sebring several years ago that was doing the same thing. She had it to several shops and home town mechanics and never could get it diagnosed properly. She put more into try to get it fixed than what the car was worth. She finally sold it after it died pulling out onto a highway. We almost got t-boned by a semi, but thankfully we were on a hill and could roll back out of the way. Don't waste time, just sell and move on.

 

[GhostVol]

The only thing wrong with my car is that it ain't a Maserati.

 

[fuzz77]

Trade it in and use the $500 dollars you get for it towards you down payment and lease your next car.

Crazy people still buy things that depreciate.

Crazy people still think that leasing isn't buying. Dude, leasing is buying the depreciation of a car...the most expensive depreciation the car will experience...like that part where you drive it off the lot.

 

[JohnBlue]

Common symptoms of a car that was used too much when it was new.

 

[uksam21]

you have an exhaust flow issue. bad news, its hard to diagnose; good news, its easy to fix. what happens is the metal inside the corruption off shoot bends in an a-shape downward into the vortex causing restriction. the best, cheapest and easiest way to fix this is problem is go get a hose clamp from any auto parts store (one that will clamp down somewhere between 2 and 3 inches, a large diameter hose, 2 rolls of duct tape, and make sure gas tank is full.

1. cut off metal fitting on garden hose (either end - doesn't matter.)
2. slit hose in one line until you can fit that end snugly over exhaust pipe
3. now take one hose clamp and place on exhaust pipe.
4. once on fairly securely use entire roll of duct tape up and down hose/exhaust area to make sure it will not come undone unintentionally, or for that matter intentionally from a any bystander unfamiliar with this correction technique.
5. run hose along drivers side of car to window.
6. crack window with electronic window lever or manual lever (depending on option on vehicle)
7. place hose end through window, ever so slightly closing window as to hold hose tight in place.
8. You guessed it, seal remaining area of window with roll 2 of duct tape, leaving enough left over to tape here and there along side of care for extra security.
9. check to ensure there are NO KINKS in hose between exhaust and window - kinks will just delay the fix and cost extra gas money.
10. Once satisfied Nos. 1-9 are satisfactorily complete, enter the drivers side and close to securely.
11. With foot on brake, turn ignition and start engine, leaving vehicle either in Park or Neutral (depending on transmission).
12. Place head next to hose in window listening for a distinctive Bob-White whistling sound. No other sound will indicate correction completion. do not mistake hums, gargles, appearances of dead relatives, or bright lights at the end of tunnels to indicate success. it must be a Bob-White sound.

Once heard, you may remove apparatus and thank yourself for saving the trouble.

Thanks lol

 

[TortElvisII]

 

[HossCat73_rivals]

Sounds like you either need a tune up, or you're using cheap gas. Start with the gas..run whats left of it out. Buy a can of that **** in the white can at oreillys or auto zone, seafoam, fill the tank up with some 93 octane at shell and pour the seafoam in on top of it. Should notice a difference..but still, a good tuneup along with it won't hurt

 

[uksam21]

Sounds like you either need a tune up, or you're using cheap gas. Start with the gas..run whats left of it out. Buy a can of that **** in the white can at oreillys or auto zone, seafoam, fill the tank up with some 93 octane at shell and pour the seafoam in on top of it. Should notice a difference..but still, a good tuneup along with it won't hurt

so definitely not computer issues from what you can see. I think they throw that on there cause they don't want to fix it.

 

[sg24_]

Try a new fuel filter or some fuel injector cleaner. As others had said, it may be time to get rid of it.

 

[ThwKentuckyKid]

You need to change your Hemi.

 

[HossCat73_rivals]

so definitely not computer issues from what you can see. I think they throw that on there cause they don't want to fix it.

My '03 Avalon (83k miles) did the same thing..noticed the rpm's were dropping, my take off power wasnt as strong, and sometimes at a red light, it'd almost choke out...lastly, check engine light came on. Tech 2 handheld threw a throttle body code...part alone was $140, iirc..guy over here behind work gave me the same advice I gave you. "Quit using that **** gasoline, and if the seafoam/93 octane doesnt work, come see me then.."

No problems since, and that's been back in May. I now rotate between 89 & 93 octane gas ONLY.

 

[DSmith21]

you have an exhaust flow issue. bad news, its hard to diagnose; good news, its easy to fix. what happens is the metal inside the corruption off shoot bends in an a-shape downward into the vortex causing restriction. the best, cheapest and easiest way to fix this is problem is go get a hose clamp from any auto parts store (one that will clamp down somewhere between 2 and 3 inches, a large diameter hose, 2 rolls of duct tape, and make sure gas tank is full.

1. cut off metal fitting on garden hose (either end - doesn't matter.)
2. slit hose in one line until you can fit that end snugly over exhaust pipe
3. now take one hose clamp and place on exhaust pipe.
4. once on fairly securely use entire roll of duct tape up and down hose/exhaust area to make sure it will not come undone unintentionally, or for that matter intentionally from a any bystander unfamiliar with this correction technique.
5. run hose along drivers side of car to window.
6. crack window with electronic window lever or manual lever (depending on option on vehicle)
7. place hose end through window, ever so slightly closing window as to hold hose tight in place.
8. You guessed it, seal remaining area of window with roll 2 of duct tape, leaving enough left over to tape here and there along side of care for extra security.
9. check to ensure there are NO KINKS in hose between exhaust and window - kinks will just delay the fix and cost extra gas money.
10. Once satisfied Nos. 1-9 are satisfactorily complete, enter the drivers side and close to securely.
11. With foot on brake, turn ignition and start engine, leaving vehicle either in Park or Neutral (depending on transmission).
12. Place head next to hose in window listening for a distinctive Bob-White whistling sound. No other sound will indicate correction completion. do not mistake hums, gargles, appearances of dead relatives, or bright lights at the end of tunnels to indicate success. it must be a Bob-White sound.

Once heard, you may remove apparatus and thank yourself for saving the trouble.

Great post. I would just add that If you notice any of the symptoms below, you have done it correctly. Also once your skin turns cherry red, you win the prize.

 

[uksam21]

My '03 Avalon (83k miles) did the same thing..noticed the rpm's were dropping, my take off power wasnt as strong, and sometimes at a red light, it'd almost choke out...lastly, check engine light came on. Tech 2 handheld threw a throttle body code...part alone was $140, iirc..guy over here behind work gave me the same advice I gave you. "Quit using that **** gasoline, and if the seafoam/93 octane doesnt work, come see me then.."

No problems since, and that's been back in May. I now rotate between 89 & 93 octane gas ONLY.

So you are suggesting bad gas? So premium is what I should get? So the PCM is just a bull excuse to not work on it. I mean remember it's not starting.

 

[HossCat73_rivals]

So you are suggesting bad gas? So premium is what I should get? So the PCM is just a bull excuse to not work on it. I mean remember it's not starting.

Oh...reading is our friend, lol..

Hmmm...is it cranking at all, or just the clicking sound similar to battery, or an alternator issue?

 

[From-the-stands]

Low RPM and sputtering sound like the prob I had with my Lexus 2 years ago. I took it to auto zone and got the free computer diagnostic they offer. Googled all that and was pointed in the direction of dirty fuel valve. $100 fix with a non dealer/chain mechanic.

 

[kyhusker2]

When I first bought my current car (it was used), it sputtered and stalled several times. First they said it was a problem with the fuel pump, then something else, and finally found it was a dirty/clogged fuel filter.

I also had a faulty cam sensor a couple years ago. Car would start fine, but then I'd put it in reverse and it would quit. But you've already had that replaced, so it shouldn't be that.

 

[uksam21]

Oh...reading is our friend, lol..

Hmmm...is it cranking at all, or just the clicking sound similar to battery, or an alternator issue?

absolutely it cranks, just won't fire up. Never seen a car do that before. Definitely not the battery.

 

[Kooky Kats]

**** gas causes misfires in cylinders. Primo gas, tune up, plugs wires.

Timing belt.

Repair value > Car Value.

Push that piece of crap off cliff.

 

[TortElvisII]

absolutely it cranks, just won't fire up. Never seen a car do that before. Definitely not the battery.

New coil. New Ignition.

 

[.S&C.]

I'm just wondering, where is my car?

 

[Supreme Lord Z]

Don't listen to these idiots as they'll get you killed. What you need to do is steal. You obviously don't have any money and since you drive a Mazda it is also apparent your decision making ability is non-functioning, so at this point of your life I think crime is your best only option.

 

[RacerX.ksr]

I'm going with clogged fuel filter or fuel pump.

 

[cawoodsct]

The driver