First of all, I know this is a topic better suited for NAFOOM, but given the subject, I thought I would would ask here first. Spring is upon us and that means getting back outside and doing some yard work. My question is what can I do to keep my grass from dying and bring it back to life. I run the sprinklers several times a week (2a.m.) and have been trying to rake out all the old and dead grass. I have bare spots in some areas, and in the areas with grass, it seems like there is a lot of dead grass mixed in with the healthy grass. I think I have Centipede grass if that is any help. Are there any simple cheap things I can do to help promote some growth? I'm in the Pensacola-Ft. Walton Beach area to give you an idea about temp ranges. Moderators, feel free to lock it down if need be. I'll go back to lurking now
For you turf grass experts
- Thread starter SuspectZero
- Start date
but one thing I've noticed is that centipede is some finicky *** ****. Not enough water is bad. Too much water is bad. I had the **** 2 houses back and hated it with a passion. When I built, I told the builder I better not see centipede anywhere near my lot or he was fired.
My advice - find a better variety.
My advice - find a better variety.
<p style="text-decoration: underline;"><font size="2"><font face="Arial"><em style="font-style: normal;">Centipede[/i]</font></font></p>
<font size="2"><font face="Arial"><em style="font-style: normal;">1) Do NOT over-fertilizer - Centipede cannot handle a lot of fertilzier.[/i]</font></font></p>
<font size="2"><font face="Arial"><em style="font-style: normal;">2) Do NOT mow low - Centipede mowed lowed becomes stressed out and thuse tend to have problems or even die out.[/i]</font></font></p>
<font size="2">Centipede is resistant to most disease and insects with the main problem being the build up of thatch. Early spring raking can take care of this problem easily and using a bag catcher when mowing. The main importance of getting a good lawn from centipede is to have the site as free from deviations in ground level as possible. This grass will be mown quite low and every hill or bump will result in the grass getting scalped and the roots will die and centipede does not repair quickly.</font></p>
<font size="2">Maintenance: Low to medium with yearly fertilization and possible additions of iron sulfate or chelate on heavier soils with pH higher than 7.2 and on sandy soils higher than 6.5; regular mowing and watering when necessary. Potassium might have to be added in the spring and fall to encourage root development and help to winterize the lawn.</font></p>
<font size="2">Watering: In the starting stages the ground should be kept moist, not soaked until established seedlings take root. Water four to eight (depending upon sandiness) inches deep at the time to establish a deeper root system because centipede is not as drought tolerant as some other grasses. Shallow watering only provides for the root system to establish just under the soil. Medium to low water usage depending upon the weather. In drought conditions water thoroughly as with all grasses.</font></p>
<font size="2">Mowing Depends upon growth and the lawn you want to achieve. Proper mowing should be determined by
1 ½ - 2 inches - www.lawn-mowing.com</font></p>
<font size="2">Weeding: Early spring application of herbicides for crabgrass and annual weeds and a hormone type for broadleaf weeds.</font></p>
<font size="2">Fertilization: Low to medium if at all with nitrogen and potassium and no phosphorus as this depletes the iron levels; a good application would be 15-0-15. 16-4-8 is also a recommended fertilizer for Centipede. Centipede is not responsive to high rates of fertilizers. Fertilizer should be added at the time of planting, with additional yearly application. Iron chlorosis can be a problem. Chelated or ferrous sulfate is recommended for improving the iron deficiency --- Also balancing the pH to a more acidic level can help. It adapts best to a soil pH of 5.0 to 5.5.</font></p>
<font size="2">Weed Control is needed in the winter to discourage weed growth while the grass is dormant in the cooler areas. Herbicides of a hormonal type can be used at this time for the broad-leafed weeds and other weeds can be controlled with pre-emergence herbicides.</font></p>
<font size="2">Diseases that are common are brown patch and dollar spot.</font></p>
<font size="2">Ryegrass Overseeding - Most experts recommend that you do NOT overseed your centipede lawn with a winter ryegrass. It can in some situations result in thinning out (killing) of your lawn over time due to the added stress of early spring competition. Fescue in general is a better overseed variety to use (not ryegrass). However in general the best recommendation is to do nothing.</font></p>
<font size="2">Pests that affect Centipede include nematodes and ground pearls. Nematodes & ground pearls can usually be prevented by keeping the moisture level up since each grows well in sandier, drier areas. Your last resort will be fumigation of the soil for nematodes infestations. Nematodes are the most serious of the pest problems affecting Centipede grass. Infected areas will show heavy wilt even under good watering practices. Other insects affecting Centipede are spittlebugs, sod webworms, mole crickets, caterpillars and grubs.</font></p> <p align="left">Centipede decline is a problem in some centipede lawns. this occurs after a few years of an established lawn's life and is usually indicative or some underlying problems. Symptoms are yellow spots in lawn (also caused by iron chlorosis) and dead spots in spring growth. Causes of the decline can be any one or combination of these practices or conditions:</p>
<font size="2"><font face="Arial"><em style="font-style: normal;">1) Do NOT over-fertilizer - Centipede cannot handle a lot of fertilzier.[/i]</font></font></p>
<font size="2"><font face="Arial"><em style="font-style: normal;">2) Do NOT mow low - Centipede mowed lowed becomes stressed out and thuse tend to have problems or even die out.[/i]</font></font></p>
<font size="2">Centipede is resistant to most disease and insects with the main problem being the build up of thatch. Early spring raking can take care of this problem easily and using a bag catcher when mowing. The main importance of getting a good lawn from centipede is to have the site as free from deviations in ground level as possible. This grass will be mown quite low and every hill or bump will result in the grass getting scalped and the roots will die and centipede does not repair quickly.</font></p>
<font size="2">Maintenance: Low to medium with yearly fertilization and possible additions of iron sulfate or chelate on heavier soils with pH higher than 7.2 and on sandy soils higher than 6.5; regular mowing and watering when necessary. Potassium might have to be added in the spring and fall to encourage root development and help to winterize the lawn.</font></p>
<font size="2">Watering: In the starting stages the ground should be kept moist, not soaked until established seedlings take root. Water four to eight (depending upon sandiness) inches deep at the time to establish a deeper root system because centipede is not as drought tolerant as some other grasses. Shallow watering only provides for the root system to establish just under the soil. Medium to low water usage depending upon the weather. In drought conditions water thoroughly as with all grasses.</font></p>
<font size="2">Mowing Depends upon growth and the lawn you want to achieve. Proper mowing should be determined by
1 ½ - 2 inches - www.lawn-mowing.com</font></p>
<font size="2">Weeding: Early spring application of herbicides for crabgrass and annual weeds and a hormone type for broadleaf weeds.</font></p>
<font size="2">Fertilization: Low to medium if at all with nitrogen and potassium and no phosphorus as this depletes the iron levels; a good application would be 15-0-15. 16-4-8 is also a recommended fertilizer for Centipede. Centipede is not responsive to high rates of fertilizers. Fertilizer should be added at the time of planting, with additional yearly application. Iron chlorosis can be a problem. Chelated or ferrous sulfate is recommended for improving the iron deficiency --- Also balancing the pH to a more acidic level can help. It adapts best to a soil pH of 5.0 to 5.5.</font></p>
<font size="2">Weed Control is needed in the winter to discourage weed growth while the grass is dormant in the cooler areas. Herbicides of a hormonal type can be used at this time for the broad-leafed weeds and other weeds can be controlled with pre-emergence herbicides.</font></p>
<font size="2">Diseases that are common are brown patch and dollar spot.</font></p>
<font size="2">Ryegrass Overseeding - Most experts recommend that you do NOT overseed your centipede lawn with a winter ryegrass. It can in some situations result in thinning out (killing) of your lawn over time due to the added stress of early spring competition. Fescue in general is a better overseed variety to use (not ryegrass). However in general the best recommendation is to do nothing.</font></p>
<font size="2">Pests that affect Centipede include nematodes and ground pearls. Nematodes & ground pearls can usually be prevented by keeping the moisture level up since each grows well in sandier, drier areas. Your last resort will be fumigation of the soil for nematodes infestations. Nematodes are the most serious of the pest problems affecting Centipede grass. Infected areas will show heavy wilt even under good watering practices. Other insects affecting Centipede are spittlebugs, sod webworms, mole crickets, caterpillars and grubs.</font></p> <p align="left">Centipede decline is a problem in some centipede lawns. this occurs after a few years of an established lawn's life and is usually indicative or some underlying problems. Symptoms are yellow spots in lawn (also caused by iron chlorosis) and dead spots in spring growth. Causes of the decline can be any one or combination of these practices or conditions:</p>
I wish I could but right now that isn't an option. When we bought this house 2 years ago it was already pretty bad and it has gotten worse, but we go a good deal on the house in a good subdivision so I didn't mind. I don't think is is beyond rescue at this point but I need to do something soon. I wonder if just adding the recomended dose of nitrogen and water might do the trick. On the flip side, this **** doesn't grow very fast so I don't have to mow it very often. That leaves more time for drinking beer at the beach.
1) Don't fertilize centipede more than once per year, or maybe ever other year. You can put out a weed and feed type in the next few weeks as it is greening up
2) Don't water at night, or too much. Water a couple of times per week at dusk or dawn unless it's very dry.
3) Get the thatch out about now
4) Aerate in the fall
5) Look for a herbicide called "Image" for those weeds (identify the weeds first, there are different types of Image)
6) Treat with fungicide ("F-Stop" is one) for dollar spot and brown patch, which it sounds like you have.
7) Don't mow too low. It works better if you leave it a little long, plus it looks better, and always with a sharp blade.
8) Mix in some manure-based soil treatment to enrich your soil in the dead spots.
9) Plug some of the healthy grass in the dead spots to see if it will take hold and spread</p>
One other thing, if you have much shade, centipede will not grow well at all. It has to have full sun. And if there are oak trees in your yard, it won't grow under them at all.</p>
2) Don't water at night, or too much. Water a couple of times per week at dusk or dawn unless it's very dry.
3) Get the thatch out about now
4) Aerate in the fall
5) Look for a herbicide called "Image" for those weeds (identify the weeds first, there are different types of Image)
6) Treat with fungicide ("F-Stop" is one) for dollar spot and brown patch, which it sounds like you have.
7) Don't mow too low. It works better if you leave it a little long, plus it looks better, and always with a sharp blade.
8) Mix in some manure-based soil treatment to enrich your soil in the dead spots.
9) Plug some of the healthy grass in the dead spots to see if it will take hold and spread</p>
One other thing, if you have much shade, centipede will not grow well at all. It has to have full sun. And if there are oak trees in your yard, it won't grow under them at all.</p>
All grasses, in general, should be fertilized AFTER the first "good flush of growth" In other words, DON'T use something like 13-13-13 on grasses that have just broken dormancy.
Apply evenly, just before a nice rain or be ready to water in w/sprinkler. Mother nature works best.
I cut my centipede back to more putting green style w/no deleterious effect, but during dry spells (7-10 days, no rain) I make sure I get at least an inch of water in.
Yeah, its easily stressed by drought if its too short.
Most importantly, have your LM blade sharp as to not to rip or tear the grass blade. I have the blade sharpened 1x per month during growing season.
Apply evenly, just before a nice rain or be ready to water in w/sprinkler. Mother nature works best.
I cut my centipede back to more putting green style w/no deleterious effect, but during dry spells (7-10 days, no rain) I make sure I get at least an inch of water in.
Yeah, its easily stressed by drought if its too short.
Most importantly, have your LM blade sharp as to not to rip or tear the grass blade. I have the blade sharpened 1x per month during growing season.
I appreciate all the advice. I will adjust my watering time to right before sun up. I haven't put down any fertilizer yet or any treatment for that matter. As far as mowing, I keep my blade as sharp as I can and I never mow it too low. I have the mower set on the highest setting. However, the grass never really gets that high for the mowing to be very effective. Mostly, it just cuts the weeds. I don't have much shade in the yard. My house faces east so the grass in the back yard is under shade for a while longer than the front but there isn't any difference in the growth. Like I said, thanks for the advice. I appreciate it. I owe you all a cold beer. By the way, I've been meaning to ask the board for some time now because I haven't seen it posted. I noticed on Saddawgs blog a few weeks ago that someone won the fishing trip. Whick one of you SOB's was it? Was it a sixpacker or some random dude?
Use roundup on bermuda grass in early March when the bermuda is still dormant. It will kill weeds like a sumbitch and won't hurt bermuda as long as it is dormant.
When I lived in Orlando, Mole Crickets where a common pest. They eat the roots and would kill patches of grass as you described. They leave tunnel tracks that you can see on top of the soil.
</a><a title="Mole Cricket" href="http://entnem.ufl.edu/fasulo/molecrickets/mcri0008.htm">Mole Cricket
</a><a title="Mole Cricket" href="http://entnem.ufl.edu/fasulo/molecrickets/mcri0008.htm">Mole Cricket
You could always re-sod your yard with Hybrid Bermuda grass. In Mississippi we have Tifway 419-2, which is what you have in FL. It's what you see on alot of golf courses and baseball fields, well, it or zoysia. You really can't hurt it, but it does require a little extra mowing if you want it to be healthy. I have dealt with St. Augustine and Centipede and have found that by far the bermuda grass is the easiest to maintain. Bermuda grass develops a deep root system that when properly cared for, will last a long time.