Guided Overnight Backpack Trip

[paindonthurt_]

Yosemite or Glacier National
And why?
And suggestions on outfitters?

I wouldn’t consider myself a mountain climber (not going with dorn to climb Everest), but I’m in pretty solid shape. Can run 6 miles with ease.

 

[Shmuley]

Both are bear country. Both are acclimation required. Glacier back country options are limited and HEAVILY permitted. And the season is so damn limited. Would be surprised if there are any openings for Glacier permits. Yosemite has more options for back country, but still has permit requirements. Both are very popular and heavily trafficked until you get very remote.

 

[Jeffreauxdawg]

Shmuley knows more than I do, so if he's right and those places are off the list... The Sawtooth's are accessible and amazing. Everyone I know that's into hiking/backpacking out here says its as good as it gets.

https://sawtoothguides.com/
View attachment 21006

I have been day hiking all summer with the family (Kids are too small for more than a few miles...). I am looking forward to my boys getting big enough to go on overnight backpacking adventures. Sawtooths are top of list. One nice thing about the Sawtooths is its black bears only, no Grizzlies.

I have not been to Glacier yet, but I have been to Yosemite and Yellowstone and the Sawtooth's are legit. Lots of other adventures nearby too. The salmon river runs right underneath if you want to hit the rapids for the day.

 

[wsjmsu75]

Shmuley knows more than I do, so if he's right and those places are off the list... The Sawtooth's are accessible and amazing. Everyone I know that's into hiking/backpacking out here says its as good as it gets.

https://sawtoothguides.com/
View attachment 21006

I have been day hiking all summer with the family (Kids are too small for more than a few miles...). I am looking forward to my boys getting big enough to go on overnight backpacking adventures. Sawtooths are top of list. One nice thing about the Sawtooths is its black bears only, no Grizzlies.

I have not been to Glacier yet, but I have been to Yosemite and Yellowstone and the Sawtooth's are legit. Lots of other adventures nearby too. The salmon river runs right underneath if you want to hit the rapids for the day.

Wear your natty stuff and piss those black bears off!!

 

[Jeffreauxdawg]

I thought about that when that guy posted it... I was thinking about ordering a flag, but them damn bears would be in my garbage cans every night.

 

[aTotal360]

I can hook you up with a vision quest.

 

[Bulldogg31]

Can run 6 miles with ease.

In a row?

 

[paindonthurt_]

Yes

 

[Emma’s Dad]

Suggestions (I have hiked in both Yosemite and Glacier):

Don’t go until late September. Fall hiking is the best and the crowds will have moved out.

If bears bother you and/or you are hiking with kids, Yosemite may be preferable. Black bears in Yosemite. Grizz in Glacier (highest concentration in lower 48). You will see them in Glacier. Obey the rules re camping away from food, changing clothes to sleep after eating dinner, and carry bear spray — make noise when in brushy areas and don’t hike at dusk etc.

Yosemite has more Immediately accessible dramatic views (Clingman’s Dome, etc) and even in the valley where as you drive in you can watch climbers on El Cap— incredible what they do.

But Glacier is in some ways more magnificent and remote, and the wildlife (grizz, big horn sheep etc) can be seen in the wild. The amount of wildlife in Glacier is probably exceeded only by what you would encounter in Yellowstone.

Mixed feelings about having a guide — not really necessary unless you have never been in the backcountry.

Consider targeted day hikes if not up for cross country backpacking, permitting. Both can be done in either park in ways that are rewarding.

Can’t miss on either. Have fun.

 

[grinningmule]

The Sawtooths are pretty awesome. Plenty of public dry camping spots all over Idaho too. I just finished a two week brewery tour of Idaho and Montana and got back home just before all of the wildfire smoke started choking out the scenery.

 

[ZombieKissinger]

Yes

I think you may have happened upon the wrong message board

 

[60sdog]

I highly recommend Gand Teton Park.

 

[SWFLDawg]

With the fairly recent permit requirements you literally have to plan your trip around when you are able to get a permit. I hiked half dome from glacier point about ten years ago when all you had to was show up. Thought about going this summer but all booked up. Wound up going to Iceland instead. Incredible place with no crowds once you get 200 yards down a trail.

another less travelled option would be the Canadian Rockies. We did this two years ago. Did a 15 mile hike with parks Canada guides and saw only a half dozen people. Stay away from Banff (gatlinburg west) and lake Louise and you avoid the crowds. Canada opening up to vaxxed Americans in august.

 

[Maroon Eagle]

Iceland has been on my list — not for hiking but for visiting. My thing is that I’m a solo traveler and I’m not a fan of the high costs there. What do you do to get around the higher prices other than of course go with at least one other person?

 

[DesotoCountyDawg]

Lunatic fringe
I know you’re out there…

 

[SWFLDawg]

Because Iceland is so sparsely populated (350,000 people in an area the size of Maine) once you get out of Reykjavik or Akureyri there are very few legit hotels. Its almost entirely Airbnbs and hostels. There were three of us traveling so we were getting two bedroom places everywhere which you pay a price for. There are tons of one bedroom and studio units everywhere. Every settlement with 100 people has a hostel, some offer private rooms with shared bathrooms. I would say that going during the shoulder seasons would be less expensive also.

start an Iceland travel thread i will spill all the goods!

 

[paindonthurt_]

I was thinking late september to mid october.
No kids. Only adults.
I'm thinking Yosemite mainly for views and ease to get to that area. Probably try to do Glacier at some point but not yet.
Having a guide. I've never done back country so I want do guided a couple of times first.

 

[Jeffreauxdawg]

I get what your intent about the crowds at Banff, but just to be clear, you are only talking about the tourists when you compare Banff to Gatlinburg, correct?

View attachment 21013

View attachment 21014

I haven't been to Banff in a decade and over 2 decades since Gatlinburg... A lot has changed if your comp is talking about more than the crowds **

 

[Jeffreauxdawg]

Good timing on getting out. The smoke is about 6 weeks early. Mid August through September is usually fire season, but it was so dry this spring and then a heat wave this summer has lit the intermountain northwest up like crazy. My neighbor is the Division Chief for the Bureau of Land Management's Fire and Aviation program and head of the interagency fire center at the airport in Boise.. in charge of hundreds of smoke jumpers. She saId this will be the worst fire season in decades in Oregon, Washington, Northern CA, Idaho, Western Montana, and Western Wyoming.

Anyone thinking of a last minute trip out west between now and October. Don't. Yellowstone is getting smoked out already and it will get a lot worse later this summer when fires in western MT and East Idaho kick up. It has not been bad here in town, but you can't get out and hike or ride bikes up in the foothills. It will definitely choke you out.

What breweries did you like the best on your trip? I have only hit a few so far. Payette, Sockeye, and Spring Creek are local and we hit them a few times. Also went to Salmon River Brewery a few weeks ago and enjoyed it. I have a friend who says Helena, MT has some good ones. I definitely want to check out Grand Teton as well.

 

[Emma’s Dad]

Just realized I inadvertently referred to Half Dome as Clingman’s Dome above. SMH. “A mind is a terrible thing...” Quite a difference between the two.

I second the recommendation to look at Canadian Rockies too. Google the Triple Crown of Waterton (in Canadian part of Glacier). Three exceptional hikes. Banff is crowded but you don’t have to hike far to leave the tourists behind and some great stuff to do up toward Jasper.

I’d love to know more about Iceland—looked at several times but never been and would love to hear more from SWFLDawg on travels there. No easy way to get there but looks incredible.

 

[MS-halfstep]

We did Banff and Jasper last summer, but camped near Jasper on the BC side. Much less crowded and more enjoyable. Did a day trip down to Lake Louise and it was slammed but well worth the quick view of the lake. There is so much to see along the Icefields Parkway

 

[fishwater99]

Suggestions (I have hiked in both Yosemite and Glacier):

Don’t go until late September. Fall hiking is the best and the crowds will have moved out.

If bears bother you and/or you are hiking with kids, Yosemite may be preferable. Black bears in Yosemite. Grizz in Glacier (highest concentration in lower 48). You will see them in Glacier. Obey the rules re camping away from food, changing clothes to sleep after eating dinner, and carry bear spray — make noise when in brushy areas and don’t hike at dusk etc.

Yosemite has more Immediately accessible dramatic views (Clingman’s Dome, etc) and even in the valley where as you drive in you can watch climbers on El Cap— incredible what they do.

But Glacier is in some ways more magnificent and remote, and the wildlife (grizz, big horn sheep etc) can be seen in the wild. The amount of wildlife in Glacier is probably exceeded only by what you would encounter in Yellowstone.

Mixed feelings about having a guide — not really necessary unless you have never been in the backcountry.

Consider targeted day hikes if not up for cross country backpacking, permitting. Both can be done in either park in ways that are rewarding.

Can’t miss on either. Have fun.

I agree, unless you have never backpacked before don't get a guide.
Also, check the gun laws first if you plan on taking a pistol, which I do recommend for bear safety.

 

[grinningmule]

Good timing on getting out. The smoke is about 6 weeks early. Mid August through September is usually fire season, but it was so dry this spring and then a heat wave this summer has lit the intermountain northwest up like crazy. My neighbor is the Division Chief for the Bureau of Land Management's Fire and Aviation program and head of the interagency fire center at the airport in Boise.. in charge of hundreds of smoke jumpers. She saId this will be the worst fire season in decades in Oregon, Washington, Northern CA, Idaho, Western Montana, and Western Wyoming.

Anyone thinking of a last minute trip out west between now and October. Don't. Yellowstone is getting smoked out already and it will get a lot worse later this summer when fires in western MT and East Idaho kick up. It has not been bad here in town, but you can't get out and hike or ride bikes up in the foothills. It will definitely choke you out.

What breweries did you like the best on your trip? I have only hit a few so far. Payette, Sockeye, and Spring Creek are local and we hit them a few times. Also went to Salmon River Brewery a few weeks ago and enjoyed it. I have a friend who says Helena, MT has some good ones. I definitely want to check out Grand Teton as well.

I've hit quite a few off and on in Bosie in the last two years; always seem to find myself at Sockeye if it is around meal time. My favorite in Montana is Bandit Brewing in Darby; it is tiny but a cool little place. I hit Lolo's Peak in Lolo, Big Sky in Missoula, Lewis & Clark and Blackfoot River in Helena, Melvin's in Alpine, WY and Grand Teton in Victor once I got back in Idaho. I missed quite a few due to the time of day I passed through. Montana breweries who operate under a brewery only license have to close at 8pm every day. I never touched an interstate my whole trip and stuck to the scenic byways. But yeah, the scenery is pretty much ruined for quite a while with the smoke. I was going to ease up to Hell's Canyon soon but will wait on that trip.

 

[grinningmule]

Good timing on getting out. The smoke is about 6 weeks early. Mid August through September is usually fire season, but it was so dry this spring and then a heat wave this summer has lit the intermountain northwest up like crazy. My neighbor is the Division Chief for the Bureau of Land Management's Fire and Aviation program and head of the interagency fire center at the airport in Boise.. in charge of hundreds of smoke jumpers. She saId this will be the worst fire season in decades in Oregon, Washington, Northern CA, Idaho, Western Montana, and Western Wyoming.



Anyone thinking of a last minute trip out west between now and October. Don't. Yellowstone is getting smoked out already and it will get a lot worse later this summer when fires in western MT and East Idaho kick up. It has not been bad here in town, but you can't get out and hike or ride bikes up in the foothills. It will definitely choke you out.



What breweries did you like the best on your trip? I have only hit a few so far. Payette, Sockeye, and Spring Creek are local and we hit them a few times. Also went to Salmon River Brewery a few weeks ago and enjoyed it. I have a friend who says Helena, MT has some good ones. I definitely want to check out Grand Teton as well.

I've hit quite a few off and on in Bosie in the last two years; always seem to find myself at Sockeye if it is around meal time. My favorite in Montana is Bandit Brewing in Darby; it is tiny but a cool little place. I hit Lolo's Peak in Lolo, Big Sky in Missoula, Lewis & Clark and Blackfoot River in Helena, Melvin's in Alpine, WY and Grand Teton in Victor once I got back in Idaho. I missed quite a few due to the time of day I passed through. Montana breweries who operate under a brewery only license have to close at 8pm every day. I never touched an interstate my whole trip and stuck to the scenic byways. But yeah, the scenery is pretty much ruined for quite a while with the smoke. I was going to ease up to Hell's Canyon soon but will wait on that trip.

 

[hdogg]

I've done a trip almost every year since 2007, and a few before then but not as regular. I've been to most national parks out west and a few lesser known in Oregon/Washington.
Typically we go 5-7 days and average 7-10 miles/day. Never had a guide. I'm also fat, so you should have no problems if you can run 6 miles. I can't run 1. Ok now that the intro is done...

All parks are slammed this year, so will be tough to get a permit. Glacier starts taking permit requests mid-March and and 2-3x their usual requests. I don't know how Yosemite works.
Given this info - I fully agree w/ the other posters that later September will be the only way to go this year, will be tough before then. You may see snow in October in some places so just beware.

I love Glacier - it's my favorite park. The "North Loop" is on my bucket list, it's about 5-7 days. I've been on parts of it and it's the best stuff I've seen, but other stuff does come close. Any hike in Glacier will be better than Yosemite.
My opinion, the views at Yosemite are good but not nearly as good as Glacier. It's more "rolling" mountains as opposed to "peaks" (there are exceptions, but generally Glacier has more peaks, like the Alps).
I REALLY want to do the Tetons but their permits for the 4-day loop fill up in about 5 minutes when they are issued in January. Now I wonder if guides are snagging them all? But that would be better than Yosemite.

Both Tetons and Glacier save half their backcountry sites for walk-up only. So if you go late September, you may have luck getting a good trip. It's a bit of a pain, you need to be there by 7am (or earlier in the summer) but it's an option.

The Sawtooth Mtn area looks nice - thank JoeLee for sharing that. We are looking for a trip as well in September, so may look more into that.

Other ideas - PM me if you want more info, as I don't have time to find links for all these right now, but you can see if any sound fun and I'm happy to share info, as this is my favorite thing to do in life...
4-pass loop outside of Aspen Colorado : No permits required last time I checked, loop is 26 miles or so, so you can do in 3 days but I'd recommend 4, since being outside longer is usually my goal.
Eagle Cap/Wallowas in Eastern Oregon : No permits, not many people know about it, but search for "Eagle Cap Oregon" , it's just beautiful, also better views than Yosemite
Rae Lakes, Kings Canyon : The John Muir Trail starts in Yosemite and ends at Mt Whitney, and passes thru Rae Lakes. Really good scenery here and the lakes are unreal. Also good access if you fly to Vegas and drive thru Death Valley.
Spider Gap/Buck Creek Pass, Washington : No permits. My first 6 day hike, would love to do again. You hike up 1-2 miles over a snowpack on the 2nd day, views are incredible the whole time.
Rocky Mtn Natl Park Loop from Grand lake to Estes Park and back : Really great, good wildlife, I think 34 miles with a side-trip, or 28 without. Not sure how the wildfires affected this area though.

Good Luck!

 

[Shmuley]

If you don't already have backcountry permits for either place, forget it. Ain't happening. And hiking anywhere in Glacier after September 15 is super-sketch. They generally close Going-to-the-Sun past the Avalanche Lake trailhead right around September 15. Anything above 6,000 is liable to get snow measured in feet after Sept 15.

 

[SirBarksalot]

I’m not a backpacker, but I’ve read enough Grizzly horror stories from Glacier. That would be a hard pass for me..

ed: here’s the one I was thinking of.

and looking for that story, sounds like a woman was killed just last week.

 

[Jeffreauxdawg]

I am genuinely considering purchasing this bad boy before I ever get out into Grizzly territory.

View attachment 21038

Carrying the old .480 Ruger Super Redhawk Alaskan should do the trick... Sucker weighs more than a rifle though.

 

[Emma’s Dad]

I have hiked a couple of times in Alaska. Years ago. Carried .44 magnum. Hand-held cannon. While there, a local asked what I had for protection. I told him. He laughed. Said I’d be ok if I could hit the bear but doubted I could. Said everyone there carries a long gun in the bush (what they call the backcountry). He was probably right.

That .480 looks like it would knock a bear’s head off though if your aim were true.

But you can’t carry in National Parks (legally) as I understand it. I’ve wished I had a gun a couple of times in Glacier. But have been fortunate to avoid a problem. Did encounter a mother grizz with cubs once. Hair really stands up on your neck when that happens.

 

[ZombieKissinger]

Brother and I got dropped off for three days at a cabin on a river in Alaska to fly fish. No running water, no electricity, no gun. Never been so terrified. Also had drinks in Anchorage with a Russian spy during that trip, but that's another story

 

[Jeffreauxdawg]

I saw a lone Grizzly when I was fishing by myself in the Firehole river at Yellowstone about 20 years ago. It was 500 yards away and never saw me or acknowledged me... I ran like a mofo up the bank to get in my truck that was 30 yards away. It probably never moved, but I was convinced for those 15 seconds I was not going to make it.

 

[goodknight]

Probably know this about bear encounters of the bad kind. Solo hikers highest percent, 2 next, groups of 3 or more are seldom bothered due to noise they make.

 

[Bill Shankly]

I'm headed through Yellowstone/Grand Teton for the first time in a few weeks. I'm not into back country stuff but I'm up for a decent front country trail. Unfortunately I also want to see, and photograph, as much as possible. I'm going to have 4-5 days total. Recommendations are welcome and will be listened to, but maybe not taken. I definitely have some things that I HAVE to see. I'll be staying at Lake Village.

 

[Bill Shankly]

I am genuinely considering purchasing this bad boy before I ever get out into Grizzly territory.

View attachment 21038

Carrying the old .480 Ruger Super Redhawk Alaskan. should do the trick... Sucker weighs more than a rifle though.

My brother in law has been deer hunting on Kodiak a couple of times. He carried a .50 cal revolver for bear protection. I shot the damn thing. I thought it would break my arm. He did caution me not to get my fingers anywhere near the cylinder, as the back flash would take them off.

 

[Bill Shankly]

I'm headed through Yellowstone/Grand Teton for the first time in a few weeks. I'm not into back country stuff but I'm up for a decent front country trail. Unfortunately I also want to see, and photograph, as much as possible. I'm going to have 4-5 days total. Recommendations are welcome will be listened to, but maybe not taken. I definitely have. some things that I HAVE to see.I'll be staying at Lake Village.

I also will have to drive across the great state of Arkansas. I'm planning on wearing MSU National Championship gear that day. Hopefully I make it to Oklahoma.

 

[paindonthurt_]

I’m interested in this fly fishing trip and cabin with no water and no electricity.

 

[Jeffreauxdawg]

Make sure you keep and eye on the fire forecast Bill. It's probably too late to postpone, but if its not a big deal to make a last postponement, keep it on the table. Right now Yellowstone isn't to bad, but just a few hundred miles north its pretty miserable with the smoke from all of the fires in Central Oregon. It only got to the moderate levels here last week and walking outside it was like breathing next to a campfire. Your clothes will smell. It apparently can get so bad you just can't go outside.

Anyway, a lot of small fires are burning in Central Idaho and Western Montana right now. Currently the wind is coming out of the SW and blowing it up to Northern MT and Canada, but the normal prevailing winds are a little more out of the NW and would send it right to Yellowstone. The next few days we have some dry thunderstorms (whatever the hell that is) in the forecast and more fires will likely start. Just talked to my neighbor about it last night. She said the monsoon season hit early in AZ and the Forest Service and Bureau of Land Management are sending a lot of resources up this way for the next weeks as a lot of new fires are likely.

Anyway. I just want to make sure the smoke forecast is on your radar. I'll post some pics later but there is a little mountain outside of front door (7 mile hike to the top of the peak) that is normally clear as day, today it's some what hazy as the smoke is light... Earlier this week you could not see the top and that was only "moderate" smoke. I feel bad for anyone that has to deal with that after traveling 1500 miles to Yellowstone and the Tetons.

Here is a good site to track smoke and fires.

https://fire.airnow.gov/?lat=43.647835799999996&lng=-111.1079903&zoom=10

You can see how bad it is out this way right now and its only going to get worse over the next few weeks.
View attachment 21048

 

[Bill Shankly]

Make sure you keep and eye on the fire forecast Bill. It's probably too late to postpone, but if its not a big deal to make a last postponement, keep it on the table. Right now Yellowstone isn't to bad, but just a few hundred miles north its pretty miserable with the smoke from all of the fires in Central Oregon. It only got to the moderate levels here last week and walking outside it was like breathing next to a campfire. Your clothes will smell. It apparently can get so bad you just can't go outside.

Anyway, a lot of small fires are burning in Central Idaho and Western Montana right now. Currently the wind is coming out of the SW and blowing it up to Northern MT and Canada, but the normal prevailing winds are a little more out of the NW and would send it right to Yellowstone. The next few days we have some dry thunderstorms (whatever the hell that is) in the forecast and more fires will likely start. Just talked to my neighbor about it last night. She said the monsoon season hit early in AZ and the Forest Service and Bureau of Land Management are sending a lot of resources up this way for the next weeks as a lot of new fires are likely.

Anyway. I just want to make sure the smoke forecast is on your radar. I'll post some pics later but there is a little mountain outside of front door (7 mile hike to the top of the peak) that is normally clear as day, today it's some what hazy as the smoke is light... Earlier this week you could not see the top and that was only "moderate" smoke. I feel bad for anyone that has to deal with that after traveling 1500 miles to Yellowstone and the Tetons.

Here is a good site to track smoke and fires.

https://fire.airnow.gov/?lat=43.647835799999996&lng=-111.1079903&zoom=10

You can see how bad it is out this way right now and its only going to get worse over the next few weeks.
View attachment 21048

Yeah, I have been following the smoke. The dates are set in stone and part of a larger family thing. I halfway expected it when we started planning. The only time I have ever been to Alaska we spent 4 days at Denali. There were fires everywhere and the smoke was pretty bad. It spoiled a lot of views but it was still incredible. I'll have to hop this will be the same. Thanks.

 

[Wegdawg]

Posing with grizzly mama and Cubs. Always a sketchy proposition.View attachment 21054

 

[paindonthurt_]

Wegdawg, Awfully brave and I don’t mean posing with the bears.