I like to use
Midwest Supplies. Get a starter kit of some sort (I recommend this kit:
http://www.midwestsupplies.com/brewing-starter-kit.htmlas you will want the autosiphon and the plastic carboy I find to be better than glass and useful for a secondary fermentation). You could go with a different kit, but if it doesn't have the autosiphon I highly recommend adding it to your order. If the recipe you get requires a secondary ferment, you will have to make sure the kit you get either has a carboy or that you add one to your order.<div>
</div><div>A brew kettle is needed too as you want dedicated brewing equipment. Don't use the pot from last nights beef stew to brew beer. Here are some in the 4-5 gallon range that you'll need starting out
http://www.midwestsupplies.com/homebrewing-equipment/boiling-equipment/kettles.html?kettle_size=441). You will actually be cooking just 2-3 gallons at first, so don't get the 10 gallon pot. The cheapest pot will probably do. The rest of your liquid will be added in the beer bucket to cool it down. I normally use ice from the grocery store as it gets the beer down to temperature quickly and is normally microbe free (sanitization and sterilization are the keys to good brewing).<div>
</div><div>As for storing beer after it is done brewing there are two routes: kegging and bottling. I recommend bottling at first since you will probably be wanting to give some away and it is a cheaper route. You'll need good bottles. One problem is that most beer bottles for cheap beer are made with thinner glass. This is okay for forced carbonation that they use, but you will be doing bottle fermentation (putting a little bit of sugar in the beer right before bottling allows the yeast to produce the right amount of CO2). If you use a cheap beer bottle, it might shatter, making quite a mess and destroying your hard work. Either start collecting good beer bottles (look for thickness) or buy a few (
http://www.midwestsupplies.com/homebrewing-equipment/bottling/bottles.html). You can reuse these until you lose them or they break, so wash them out after you drink. I let people know when I give them beer that I want the bottle back, but they're getting free beer so they don't complain too much. If you split the beer with someone else, your 25 or so bottles can easily last you a couple months (since you're doing p90X you might only be having a couple or so a week tops). The beer will last 3-6 months (keep it in a dark place). One problem is that bottle conditioned beer keeps fermenting so the beer might get funky after several months.</div><div>
</div><div>Lastly, find a good recipe kit (ale, that is). Here are several:
http://www.midwestsupplies.com/homebrewing-ingredients/recipe-kits.html. I recommend upgrading to the Wyeast liquid yeast. It will get your fermentation started faster and you know before you add the yeast in if the yeast is still good. As for recipes, go with a style you like. A clone kit might leave you disappointed if you are expecting it to taste like the clone. Don't be afraid of starting out with a 'big' beer like a Belgian, an IPA, or a Stout. The lighter beers in many ways require more advanced skill and techniques. Make sure you're getting an extract kit, not a grain kit. Some of the extract kits have a small amount of grains and this is okay for a beginner brewer. Just don't get the all grain kit as it requires more time, skill, and expensive equipment.</div><div>
</div><div>Hope that wasn't too much. Happy brewing!</div> </div>
