OT: Hunting Bows
- Thread starter Jago
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TomKat two years ago & have been very pleased. Lightweight,high let off and quiet. Used a PSE High Country for 14 yrs & was amazed at the difference. Went from a bow that was heavy as lead, had minimal let off and sounded like a gun going off toone that waseven faster, lighter & easier to manage. Two years & coutning--havent missed yet & have gotten more comfortable & accurate on shots of 40yds+.
I think the Bowtechs and Diamonds are two of the best bows out there right now, especially for the money. Will spend $500-600 to get fully set up.
I think the Bowtechs and Diamonds are two of the best bows out there right now, especially for the money. Will spend $500-600 to get fully set up.
I shoot a Super Hawk. Smooth, they don't make this bow any longer but if you go to archery talk you will see all kinds of info on every bow made. You can't get a bad Hoyt bow imo. I will say there are lots of really good bows from diifferent companies. Hoyt and Matthews may be a little more expensive, if you are a beginner shoot several bows before picking one.
I want it in a bad way....figure ill wait till next year with a new baby next month.......i have it on video, my buddy laying the smack down on a doe at 65 yds with the new matthews bow.....wouldnt have believed it if i didnt see it myself......thing is smooth as ice, and easy to shoot.....
For a beginner look at the PSE's, they have a bunch of their bows already set-up and you can get what you can afford. Look at the Bear and martin's as well. Like I said before, Hoyt and Matthews are a little more expensive and you will soon find out they are about as much of a rival as OM vs MSU!
I shoot a PSE X-Force Dream Season. I'd suggest you find a hunting message board with a trade forum and look there. Lots of people that are big into archery like the newest toy and will trade out their old rigs - usually nicely decked out very cheap. Some will even help you get it tuned for you if you are lucky enough.
I shoot a Mathews Z7 and love it. The Hoyt Maxxis and Bowtech Destroyer are badass new 2010 bows too. If you are looking for a fairly inexpensive bow, I would look at the Hoyt Turbohawk. You should be able to get a new one for around $500. The Turbohawk is a Hoyt Alphamax (top 2009 bow, imo) with a magnesium riser instead of aluminum. If you are new to the sport, I would recommend going through a pro shop to make sure you get one that is properly fitted for you. If you know what draw length you shoot and don't need to be fitted, check the archerytalk.com classifieds. If I was going to buy a used bow, it would be an Elite Z28 or an Elite GT-500. Elite is the only company that will honor a warranty if you aren't the original owner.
Get ready to drop $1500. You start with an $800 Bow. Next thing you know your broke by the time you rig it out.
which Bowtech dosen't offer anymore. Most people buy a Matthews, Hoyt, Bowtech or PSE. All make very good bows and all offer a more entry level bow. I love the new Bowtech Admiral--a great bow for easy draw and very accurate. If I were to start out with an entry level bow, go to Bass Pro shops and try the Diamond line--made by Bowtech: very smooth and accurate and you can get a setup for $800-900. If this is too much, try some of the used bows/trade ins at any archery shop.
OK, my two bits here.
DO NOT go and drop crazy money on this. You don't even know if you like it.
Like basedog has suggested, I second going to ArcheryTalk and picking up an older combo for about $200 or so. Or, just go to Bass Pro the first week in August and pick up a PSE Nova or something else for around $200-$250. It's perfectly acceptable quality for entry/novice level.. Set it up for about 55lbs and your draw length, and you'll have everything you need to get started. It's plenty fast enough, plenty light enough, and will kill a deer just as dead out to 50 yards.
Then practice...
And practice...
Like in golf, money spent on practice/lessons is MUCH better spent than on new equipment.
When you can hold back 60lbs for 60 seconds without shaking, and can hit a tennis ball 10/10 times from 20 paces, then you've reached the point where the more expensive equipment will matter.
Disclaimer: I've been shooting for 25+ years. Started on a PSE (Phaser II for you old salts), and now am on a 2005 Hoyt Protec. I mainly hunt, but have gotten into spots (hunter class only) recently. Last, real archers use God's given release, your fingers!
DO NOT go and drop crazy money on this. You don't even know if you like it.
Like basedog has suggested, I second going to ArcheryTalk and picking up an older combo for about $200 or so. Or, just go to Bass Pro the first week in August and pick up a PSE Nova or something else for around $200-$250. It's perfectly acceptable quality for entry/novice level.. Set it up for about 55lbs and your draw length, and you'll have everything you need to get started. It's plenty fast enough, plenty light enough, and will kill a deer just as dead out to 50 yards.
Then practice...
And practice...
Like in golf, money spent on practice/lessons is MUCH better spent than on new equipment.
When you can hold back 60lbs for 60 seconds without shaking, and can hit a tennis ball 10/10 times from 20 paces, then you've reached the point where the more expensive equipment will matter.
Disclaimer: I've been shooting for 25+ years. Started on a PSE (Phaser II for you old salts), and now am on a 2005 Hoyt Protec. I mainly hunt, but have gotten into spots (hunter class only) recently. Last, real archers use God's given release, your fingers!
Serios question though. If you have all the modern technologies of a compound, how does it make you a real archer to used your fingers instead of a release?
practice and consistency are the key. Try to shoot as often as possible but once you feel yourself starting to get tired then stop shooting for the day. If your arms/shoulders are tired, then your shots wont be consistent and you will start to think it is the bow. I shoot a often but try not to shoot over 15-20 times a day. Also your achor points (the way you hold the bow) should be the exact same every shot. Good luck...it will bring you years of enjoyment.</p>
In a sport where serious shooters debate Solocams vs Dual cams and lie awake at night dreaming of the latest Ultra-light hyperpolyresin fibers... you're gonna make my fingers bleed just so I can convince myself I'm keepin' it real? No thanks... I'll keep strapping on my Tru-Ball.
Another good resource for information is Outdoor Life Magazine. Periodically throughout the year, they conduct gear tests for new hunting, fishing, and outdoor-relateditems on the market. Their testing methods seem pretty thorough and objective. They also pick 2 items from each category. One is the "Editor's Choice" for the best item in the category, and the other is the "Great Buy"award for those on a budget, looking to get the most bang for the buck. Here's the link to this year's bow test results:
http://www.outdoorlife.com/photos/gallery/hunting/bowhunting/gear-accessories/2010/04/bow-shootout-2010
http://www.outdoorlife.com/photos/gallery/hunting/bowhunting/gear-accessories/2010/04/bow-shootout-2010
Not to mention, if you are shooting a short ATA bow or a speed bow with aggressive cams, you aren't doing yourself any favors by shooting fingers. The string angle is so acute on a short ATA bow (Z7, Maxxis, etc) that shooting with fingers could have some serious effects on accuracy. On an aggressive cam speed bow, if you ever have to let down while shooting fingers, the torque created by your fingers can derail the string off of the cam and really make a mess.
That's about average. New in box 2009s are selling on E-bay for $430-$450. I would probably offer $400. The Black Ice would be a good bow to start with, because the draw length is adjustable with modules. On other bows, you have to change cams and possibly strings to make draw length adjustments.
Here is a 07 Bowtech Guardian for sale for a good price on Archerytalk. Some people still think the Guardian is the best hunting bow ever made. And you can make draw length adjustments to it just by backing out the limb bolts. No bow press required.
http://www.archerytalk.co...showthread.php?t=1264481
Here is a 07 Bowtech Guardian for sale for a good price on Archerytalk. Some people still think the Guardian is the best hunting bow ever made. And you can make draw length adjustments to it just by backing out the limb bolts. No bow press required.
http://www.archerytalk.co...showthread.php?t=1264481
You know, I'm really beginning to hate Yuku. This is third time I've typed in a post on this thread, only to have Yuku lose it in the ether after hitting the Quick Reply button. Grrrr.... But anyhow...
That fingers remark is mostly jest. Although its great fun to jump into a Mathews/Hoyt/Bowtech pissing contest and disparage the release loop on their strings. People just can't seem to get their head around the fact that someone out there still likes to feel the string slip off.
At some point, however, it does seem to lose sight of the point. Super short ATA's, ultrahigh letoffs, why not just call it a crossbow? It's like the inline BP crowd, at some point there's just no difference anymore. (Disclaimer: I use a kit-built sidelock and I know the flinters probably feel the same way about me.)
Oh, and I've never had a release break, release early when I bumped the trigger, or have fancy gloves to wear with it, or forgot it at home, or...well, you get the point.
About that Bowtech. Nice bow, and a good price. But do you really need that? Does it come with sights, rest, quiver, etc?
There are several great advantages to the entry level bows: widely adjustable draw lengths and weights (so you don’t have to buy modules, etc); setup w/ sights, quiver, rest, etc (no additional costs).
Is it more important to have the best equipment, or to be able to shoot well?
One last thought regarding entry level vs highend: when you go to sell that BassPro combo and move up, nobody is going to ask (a) what year it is, (b) complain about the scratch on the riser, (c) snivel about the strings not being custom, etc. You'll buy a $250 combo (good deals during their August Hunting Special) and it'll sell on archerytalk or craigslist for $100-150 in a couple of years.
Whatever makes you satisfied...
That fingers remark is mostly jest. Although its great fun to jump into a Mathews/Hoyt/Bowtech pissing contest and disparage the release loop on their strings. People just can't seem to get their head around the fact that someone out there still likes to feel the string slip off.
At some point, however, it does seem to lose sight of the point. Super short ATA's, ultrahigh letoffs, why not just call it a crossbow? It's like the inline BP crowd, at some point there's just no difference anymore. (Disclaimer: I use a kit-built sidelock and I know the flinters probably feel the same way about me.)
Oh, and I've never had a release break, release early when I bumped the trigger, or have fancy gloves to wear with it, or forgot it at home, or...well, you get the point.
About that Bowtech. Nice bow, and a good price. But do you really need that? Does it come with sights, rest, quiver, etc?
There are several great advantages to the entry level bows: widely adjustable draw lengths and weights (so you don’t have to buy modules, etc); setup w/ sights, quiver, rest, etc (no additional costs).
Is it more important to have the best equipment, or to be able to shoot well?
One last thought regarding entry level vs highend: when you go to sell that BassPro combo and move up, nobody is going to ask (a) what year it is, (b) complain about the scratch on the riser, (c) snivel about the strings not being custom, etc. You'll buy a $250 combo (good deals during their August Hunting Special) and it'll sell on archerytalk or craigslist for $100-150 in a couple of years.
Whatever makes you satisfied...
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